David Stone is our co-ordinator for the Wittenham Clumps pages. Please contact him with comments or contributions.
The Clumps, with Dyke Hills in foreground
Photo : David Stone
Where Chalk meets Clay
The Sinodun Hills form the end of a spur of chalk uplands jutting north from the higher Berkshire Downs, and shaping the path of the River Thames from Clifton Hampden to Streatley. The spur terminates with the distinctive peaks of Wittenham Clumps, rising 400 feet above the clay bed of the Thames Valley with their feet being washed by the water of the Thames.
The most northern peak, and the highest point for many miles around, goes by the name of Round Hill, after its smoothly curving shape. It has also been known as Harp Hill. While it's tempting to think it may have been a site of Bardic tradition, there is no surviving evidence of this.
Next to it is the lower Castle Hill, named after the Iron Age enclosure at its summit. Its northern face is now almost entirely covered by Little Wittenham Woods, maintained as a nature reserve since 1982 by the Northmoor Trust.
Further to the south east is a third peak, Brightwell Barrow. This peak is not in the care of the Trust and is harder to access, making it feel separate from the other two peaks.
The hills and the surrounding land have been inhabited since the end of the last ice age. With the fertile soil of the valleys and the security of the uplands, settlers have long been drawn to the distinctive landmarks of the hills.
Archaeologists have discovered many earthworks, ditches, pits etc on both hills, including a cobbled Iron Age floor and a Romano-British farm house with mosaic floors and heavy roof tiles, suggesting a rich and substantial building.
Bronze Age offerings have been found in the Thames at the foot of the hills.
So, this is a place rich with history and with a long tradition of use. Now managed by the Northmoor Trust, the hills provide plenty of environments for wild life, as well as a splendid place for recreational use as well as allowing access to it's sacred heart.
These hills arise from flat, low-lying ground,
Their peaks are crowned with clumps of ancient trees
As landmarks they are praised for miles around
But older powers float upon their breeze.
These rounded mounds that rise from river plain
Are home to Goddess and her pow'r benign,
And from their heights she watches her domain
To nurture all her children throughout time.
Earth Goddess breasts that swell from lower land,
Her body: rolling downland, lying still.
The river licks her back as she reclines,
And carries blessings from these sacred hills.
This lovely Goddess I have always known
Who whispers to my heart that here's my home.
~ ~ David Stone
