The Stolen Treasure of Llyn Cerrig Bach

1942, the Second World War, decimated its way through countless countries and societies, 6 dark years of terror, bloodshed and death. But on the quiet, idyllic island of Anglesey in North Wales, an amazing and historic discovery was about to take place. Ironically, had it not been for the war, the discovery would have remained a secret buried in a wet and muddy grave.

What was discovered was a vast treasure trove of Iron age/Celtic artefacts in the muddy depths of Llyn Cerrig Bach (Lake of the small stones).

The accidental discovery occurred on the western coast of the Island, on the Ministry of Defence site of RAF “Y Fali”, one of the foremost training centres for RAF combat pilots in the United Kingdom. In late 1942, the runways of the base required substantial extension to accommodate the heavy and cumbersome American 17 ton Flying Fortresses, who would assist the British with the war effort.

To provide a foundation base for the runways a local bog was identified as a suitable source of material, and dredging of the bog soon commenced, under the guidance of a handful of local civilian men. Among them was a certain Mr. William Roberts, who would play an important part in the forthcoming discovery. Slowly but surely the old bog was dredged, and the sodden, peaty material scattered across acres of the neighbouring airfield. One morning a lorry became embedded in the boggy ground, a tractor was summoned to the site to assist in its recovery. Mr. Roberts had previously found a large chain that had appeared from the bog, this was utilized to drag the lorry from its prison.

The chain continued its rescue mission for the remainder of the day, assisting several sinking lorries, burdened by their heavy loads. A curious engineer from the base visited the site and immediately realised that the chain was not simply an old farm chain, as had been presumed. Sir Cyril Fox from the National Museum of Wales in Cardiff was called to the site to examine the chain and some other items that had since come to the surface. It transpired that the chain was in actuality a ‘Gang chain’, measuring approximately ten feet long, with equally dispersed sections of loops, for attachment to human ankles and necks. The chain had been manufactured at least 2,080 years previously!

The dredging effort was immediately halted and a full investigation of the site commenced. Archaeologists discovered a hoard of over 150 items form the pre Roman, Iron Age period, a treasure trove from the time of the Celtic People. Sadly, almost double the amount, if not more were lost forever, mostly scattered with the peat onto the airfield, now lying under thousands of tons of tarmac.

Llyn Cerrig Bach suddenly became one of the most important ritual sites in Britain from the pre Roman, Celtic Iron Age. Initially it was assumed that the items were simply rubbish, discarded items cast away into an Iron Age refuse tip. However, on closer examination most of the artefacts displayed what seemed to appear to be intentional damage. According to Dr. Miranda Green, the deliberate damage of the artefacts symbolise the severing of the objects associations with the Earthy world, therefore rendering them acceptable as “Spirit gifts” or sacrifice to the local deity or spirit.

Many of the objects found were martial in function, but elaborate decorative items were also uncovered that undoubtedly belonged to high-ranking members of the community. Among the items discovered were, gang chains, cauldrons, chariot fittings, swords, shields, various weapons, blacksmiths tools, plaques bearing the triskle and bird motif, bracelets, and bars of iron; probably used as currency for trading purposes.

The items all dated from the 2nd century B.C.E to C.E 50, eleven years prior to the Roman invasion by Seutonius Paulinus in 61 C.E.

The artefacts were documented and catalogued by Sir Cyril Fox of the National Museum in Cardiff and eventually removed to the Museum archives in the capital city. However, countless artefacts vanished during their recovery, a Mr. Evan Hughes and his children vividly recall an English Gentleman who purchased a boot full of items from some local people for a small amount of money, the gentleman and his treasure have never been heard of since.

In ancient times Llyn Cerrig Bach would have been a pool with a central Island, but transformed over the centuries into a deep peaty bog. The site is framed by rocky outcroppings of various statures, the most imposing being a three and a half meter (11ft) cliff with a flattened summit, offering an excellent vantage point, and an ideal location for the casting of offerings into the lake. The surrounding landscape is predominantly agricultural land and poor pasture with three other lakes surrounding the site, Llyn Traffwll, Llyn Penrhyn and Llyn Dinam. According to the locals there was never a mention of a lake known as Llyn Cerrig Bach, and in truth the existing lake is an after effect of the dredging process. What is now Llyn Cerrig Bach consisted of two large bogs, Cors Cae Ifan (The Bog in Evan’s field) and Cors yr Ynys (The Island Bog). It is interesting to note that the latter refers to an island within the bog, a fact unknown for centuries until aerial photography during the latter part of the twentieth century ascertained its existence. With ancient references describing the magical associations of water and of islands in Celtic cultural beliefs, this would have given the old lake and its island a great deal of spiritual and magical significance to the indigenous people. Is this why it was chosen as a Ritual site?

The prominent cliff from where it is assumed the offerings were cast from is known locally as Craig Y Carnnau (Rock of the Hooves), which seems to indicate something of a possible Pagan association. Today the cliff is known as TACAN Hill (Tactical Air Navigation) and lies on MOD property and is therefore inaccessible.

The area itself, rather than being a site of sacred importance and an area of pilgrimage, is devoid of any activity, very rarely do you see anyone at the site, apart from the odd fisherman. No one it seems spends time there honouring the spirit of the place, and probably for good reason. The airfield of the RAF camp and its runways are approx 40 feet away from the lake, and almost directly across from the entrance to the lake stands a guard box, usually with armed soldiers inside it. The place has an air of intimidation, and gives you a sense of “I shouldn’t be here”. From personal experience, I can vouch for the intimidation one feels from the presence of military personnel just across the road.

Today the area surrounding Llyn Cerrig Bach is one of significant natural beauty, a haven for various animals, birds and fish, on a warm sunny day it is easy to imagine (if you can ignore the fighter jets) the events that took place on this remarkable corner of Anglesey, and a discovery that would confirm the importance of the island as a Druidic stronghold.

However the subject of this article is “The Stolen Treasure…” and I will dwell no longer on its history.

People may wonder “Why Stolen?” for that is precisely what I believe has happened. The intentions of the priesthood who deposited the items are clear; they were offerings, to the spirits or God of this place. The items are a part of the history of Anglesey and of its people, and their relationship with this land and its tribe. And now they lie in a draughty corner of the National Museum of Wales in Cardiff, separated from their home not only by the magical waters of the Menai Straits but by two hundred miles of land!
If the Priesthood had intended for the items to be in Cardiff, they wouldn’t have deposited them in Anglesey! Scholars argue that the items are of significance to Wales as a nation, and should be housed at the National Museum, but for whose benefit, not for Anglesey’s that’s for sure. It simply boils down to the arrogance and empires of little men, and this has led to the most important discover on Anglesey to be stolen, removed from its rightful home, here on the sacred island of the Druids.

In Llangefni, a small market town in the middle of the island stands Oriel Ynys Môn (the Anglesey Museum), a modern building which houses a small exhibition of Anglesey’s varied history, a place more than capable, with some renovation, to house the treasures of its people. Yet the museum has very little on display from the age of the Celts, of course the staff of Oriel Ynys Môn would like to see the items returned from Cardiff as much as I would, but so far it hasn’t happened, except for a small number of artefacts that were returned ‘on loan’ to the museum at Llangefni in January of 2002 for two months! The remainder of the artefacts are currently held in Cardiff, of which only a fraction is on public display..

In my opinion this situation is unacceptable, along with other people on the island and in the Druid world at large. Anglesey is arguably one of the most significant centres of Druidic activity in the British Isles, and the treasure of Llyn Cerrig Bach is a major physical connection to our sacred past.

It seems that not enough is being done to retrieve the Llyn Cerrig Bach artefacts, and they have been in South Wales ever since their discovery. Anglesey and its authorities do very little to promote the heritage of the island, especially that of the Iron Age societies and the Druids. It is about time the hoard returned home, to the place they were originally offered as gifts to the spirits of this place.

I have recently been in contact with the staff at Oriel Ynys Môn, and will be arranging a meeting with the chief Curator in July. Hopefully we can come to an amicable arrangement where we can help each other out, and work together to safeguard the return of the artefacts.

Llyn Cerrig Bach may only seem like an idyllic green paradise surrounded by lakes, but just beneath the surface the old ones still speak to us, their voices and memories float upon the cool sea breeze, the land aches for the people who loved it, we are still here, and we want what is rightfully ours. The gifts that we gave to the Gods belong here on Anglesey; they are a part of our culture, land and traditions.

Even the children of Anglesey are touched by the secrets of Llyn Cerrig Bach as expressed in this poem written by the schoolchildren of Ysgol Y Borth, 2003.

Next time you have a free weekend, journey to the Island of Druids, and visit this remarkable site, let the spirit of this place touch and embrace you, and step back through the misty veil and witness for yourself the drama, colour, sweat and passion of all that happened here. And spare a thought that our treasure was stolen, and we want it back!

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Llyn Cerrig Bach can be found approximately three miles from the A55 expressway towards Holyhead, exit and follow the signs for RAF VALLEY, a public access road circles the base, as you approach the main base entrance, which is over a bridge, the road will curve to the right, the lake is approx half a mile ahead on the right, a Welsh Heritage information plaque is located at the entrance to the lake. It is obvious where you can and cannot wander, barbed wire and MOD signs will prevent you from accessing some of the site, although the land beyond the lake, on the other side of the railway line is well worth visiting and quieter than the Llyn Cerrig Bach site, all lakes are connected.

Kris Hughes, Alban Hefin 2004